Early Years Foundation Stage: Building a allurement for baddies

Ellis and his classmates build a trap for baddies in the school playground.

My Links : Buy Best Price Civil Engineer The Little Books Electronics Gadgets

Building Process 8: Backfill and Compaction

After the underslab plumbing inspection, trenches are backfilled and pre-slab preparations begin.

More review : Buy Best Price 42LD450LCDHDTV42Inch1080p

Building a garage

Time lapse construction of 2 car garage by hammertime. Music: Blink 182/Enema of the State/Aliens Exist

Tags : OTHER Pipe Jacking LCD 32 Inch 1080p HDTV

Building My House Part 1

From planning to the foundation and slab floor. Part 1

More review : Where Buy Cheap Tip Comp. Club GENERAL Earthworks

Building Process 7: Underslab Plumbing II

The waste lines are set and water is tied into the house to prepare for underslab plumbing inspection.

See Also : แนะนำจากสมาชิก Best Price STRUCTURALS DESIGN Gps Receiver Gps Reviews

Building the barn and workshop

a small slideshow showing how we build the garage and workshop. The last coat of render is not on in this edition ....when it is done, it might be added For more info go to www.pipshy.com/Diary/DiaryIndex.html

My Links : ห้องค้าขาย Gold Necklace Buy 15.6 Inch Laptop

Metal Building Construction - SteelMaster Buildings

Video with step by step photos of a steel building construction from the footing to the finished touches. The metal building was built in CA by a SteelMaster customer.

Visit : เรื่องจริงผ่านงาน ADVERTISING How to best buy eyelash

Building Process 25: Framing Details

After Shear and Tie, Framing continues with details and elevations.

Visit : Buy Best Price The Best of GPS Navigation Video Clip Review Earthworks World of Civil Engineering

Building a Model Railroad Series #2--Benchwork1

Purchase at -- www.greenfrog.com Smooth running trains and believable scenery depend on a good foundation, the benchwork. This video shows step by step how to assemble the tried and true method of benchwork known as L-Girder construction.

Thanks To : ห้องค้าขาย โยธาไทย Arts Crafts & Sewing Gold Necklace

Building An Extreme Custom Shed video: Behind the scenes of "The Twins"

LINK!!! www.youtube.com Extra footage I put together of my shed build.

Visit : ADVERTISING Civil Engineering เล่นเกมส์ออนไลน์ Your Instant Video

Building Process 8: Backfill and Compaction

After the underslab plumbing inspection, trenches are backfilled and pre-slab preparations begin.

My Links : Tip Comp. Club หมวดงานสถาปัตยกรรม With You Jewelry Plan and Layout for Construction

Building capital antechamber & basin - The Residences at Rodin

Return to_kurfiss.com _ Kurfiss Sotheby's International Realty (215 735 2225). To learn more contact Melodie Kahr (609 509 0482) or Ingrid Levin (310 990 8503) residencesatrodin@gmail.com. Credits: 3D video tour by arie@schinnar.com of BIMarchitects (music track: Mozarts Easy Sonata; selected 3D models from the 3D Google Warehouse) Sales: Kurfiss Sotheby's International Realty www.kurfiss.com/rodin Management: Madison Parke www.madisonparke.com Developer: PRA Development & Management Corp. Architect: Leonard Ciccotello, AIA www.ljcarchitects.com Video Architecture: arie@schinnar.com Resources: Pool Cover www.1st-direct.com The Residences at Rodin is a signature building designed for luxury living in Philadelphia's Benjamin Franklin Parkway. The 45 customable residences overlook the spectacular gardens of the Rodin Museum; the site is distinguished by its access to the sophistication of center city living, the cultural surroundings of the citys art and science museums, and the natural beauty of the tree-lined parkway and nearby Fairmount Park and Schuylkill River. The building's amenities include on-site garage parking; concierge services; terraces for each residence; private, in-unit elevator entry; a rooftop saltwater pool with lounging area, a secured lobby and a spacious gated garden plaza. The neighborhood's culture and central location, the unique building's design and amenities and the ten year tax abatement make this residential development one of the best real ...

More review : Best Cheap Price วิศวกรรม Buy Cheapest Best Discounts 3GWirelessReadingDevice Cheapest LCD Televisions Newest Technology Gadgets

Sustainable Building Design Construction - Fleming No. 2

Building the earthbag foundation

Thanks To : SEO for Domain 50% Discount Cheap & Deals Or More Cheap & Deals CIVIL ENGINEERING COURSE

Construction is added than Just Building (Part 1)

Too often, construction is thought of as simply the building process.  Raising materials from nothing to becoming structurally sound assemblages is obviously the sexiest aspect of construction, but it ignores the tremendous amount of prep work that goes into the construction industry.  For all major projects, the needs for site development and site infrastructure are massive – and just as important to the completed product as a load bearing beam.  This article will attempt to pull the curtain back a bit on these behind the scenes aspects of construction.  What is site development and how does it function as part of the overall construction process?

See Also : Office Electronics Gadgets Necklaces & Pendants HDTV Best Buy Technology Gadgets CIVIL ENGINEERING COURSE

Sheds Blueprints – 7 Steps to Building Your Shed With Wood Shed Blueprints

So, what do I mean by that? Well, there are several basic steps in the construction of your project, and each one of them relies on your understanding of the storage shed blueprints. From the layout of the foundation to the final trim pieces, following the sheds blueprints from start to finish will make the process a lot easier.

Thanks To : RU Engineer Dining Room Furniture Best Buy Netbook 10.1 Inch 64GBTablet3GWifiMC497LL

Methods for Building a Garden Shed Base

Having a garden shed can be a nice addition to your backyard and garden.  It can act as a storage area and perhaps even a working area for the garden.  You are probably riled up about getting your shed in place so you can begin to take advantage of it.  But before you can worry about the shed, it is vital you focus your attention on building a solid garden shed base.

Visit : Movers & Shakers 64GBTablet3GWifiMC497LL

Building Footings and How to Construct Them

I will try to cover the basics for installation of footings for various structures. Since footings are the basic foundation piece of any building, it is important that they be designed by a licensed professional who will determine the proper size of the footing. The local soil conditions and the size of the building itself will determine the physical size of the footing needed, steel reinforcement needs, if any, and so on.

Footings no matter what is intended to sit upon them such as a wall or a post must always sit upon virgin, undisturbed earth. When excavating for your footing with machinery (backhoe or a powered post hole digger), it is recommended that you dig to within a few inches of the actual depth you need and finish the last few inches by hand. This will prevent you from accidentally disturbing the earth below the bottom of your footing forms.

IF you over dig more than you need, place the footing on that level, DO NOT place loose material back into the hole. Your footing will settle when the weight of the concrete is placed on it causing the entire footing to settle.

If you have already placed your foundation wall or post on the footing, the result will be a cracked wall or a sunken post. This of course leaves you with a structurally unsound foundation wall or a deck post that sags in one corner.

Footing Types-

Footings can be formed using scrap lumber, paper tubes, and in some areas, concrete placement is allowed directly to the earth if the hole is shaped properly and the soil is solid enough to hold its shape. Check with your local building department to see if this is acceptable. When a structure such as a home or a garage is built, it is common practice to open excavate the footing trench to allow for the forming and pouring of the footings. If this is your type of project, any sound scrap lumber in the proper dimension of the footing for example 2 x 8, 2 x 10, plywood, etc. is acceptable. Since the footings will be buried, knots or holes in the lumber are no concern as appearance is not important.

Multiple paper preformed round footing tubes set in place. Diameter required will be shown on your drawings.

Paper tubes most commonly used for decks can be installed, poured and later the portion of the paper exposed above ground can be peeled away to provide a neat finished appearance. As long as the forms are strong enough to hold the weight of the concrete until it dries and the bracing is strong enough to make sure the form does not move during placement of the concrete, you are good to go. Footings are usually square but can be rectangular, round or just about any shape you can form. If you have had your footings designed by a professional, your drawings will show the shape and dimensions of the footings required. Look at your drawings carefully to determine the size and number of footings required. You will most likely want to pour them all at once to save money on the concrete orders. If you are hand mixing the concrete, you may pour them one at a time. A typical footing size may show as 2'-0" x 2'-0" x 10". That will be a 2 foot square footing that is 10 inches high or deep. The drawing will also show the elevation of the top of footing needed. Usually this shown on the footing as (-4'-0" or -8'-0") and so on. This means the TOP of the finished footing is four feet or eight feet below the finished floor of the building. You must set the first floor elevation and then deduct the four feet plus the 10 inches to get to the bottom of the new footing. Sadly it seems it is never a nice even amount like -4'. Due to dimensional lumber sizes, masonry sizes, the elevation will read more like (-4'-4 5/8"). It's OK. It's just a little math work. You want to get it right though. The top of the footing will setup the finished heights of the entire rest of your building. Get it right. Making adjustments later on, if possible at all, can be a nightmare. If you have obtained a building permit for your work, the building inspector will check to see if you have set the form the minimum depth below grade required in your area. They will NOT check your elevation for you. That is your responsibility. Your drawings will tell you all the information you need to properly install the footing in the right place and at the correct elevation.

REINFORCEMENT-

Many footings require reinforcement to strengthen the concrete. Installation is a simple task requiring only a pair of flat nosed pliers and a roll of light gauge tie wire. Your drawing will indicate the size and number of rebar pieces required. If it reads 4-#5 E.W. this means you need a total of 8 pieces of #5 rebar. Rebar is based on 1/8" increments in size so a #5 bar is 5/8" in diameter. #6 is 3/4" and so on. E.W. is shorthand for "each way", not East-West..

Large rebar mat installed in a footing.

Lay the bars on the flat ground using 4 of the bars in each direction perpendicular to each other to form a mat with 4 bars facing East-West and 4 bars facing North-South, one set on top of the other. For a 2' x 2' footing, your bars will be 1'-6" long each. Concrete protocol requires 3" of clearance from the end of each bar to the edge of the concrete. (that is just the way it is).

Rebar installed in lineal footings.

Using your tie wire, tie at least 50% of the cross points of the rebar. Just wrap the wire around both bars, twist with your pliers to make the tie tight and cut off the wire. Keeping the mat as square as possible, tie enough of the bar intersections to keep the bars from separating when the concrete is placed on top of them. Place the mat in your form keeping it in the bottom 1/3 of the footing height. (again protocol). This will give the maximum strength of your footing concrete. You do not want the rebar to touch either the forms or the earth. The concrete must completely envelop the bars. The best way to set the rebar mat is by hanging it in your form. Using two pieces of scrap lumber long enough to reach across your formwork, just place each piece of lumber about 1/3 of the way in from each side. Using your tie wire, simply hang the mat by wrapping tie wire around the bottom bars of the mat and then tying it to the support lumber. Make sure the mat is in the bottom 1/3 of the footing when you are done. Another method is to pour concrete into the form until it is 1/3 full, level out the concrete and then place the mat into the wet concrete. Complete filling the form until you are done. This is easier but if working alone it is just another task you have to do besides pouring the concrete. Vibrate your form by lightly tapping on the sides of the form with a hammer to consolidate the concrete and remove any air pockets. Finish off the top of the footing level with the forms and you may be done. If you are using round paper for tubes for a deck you may need to set an anchor bolt for the post hanger. If you are pouring a lineal footing for a wall,

Typical lineal footing forms in place.

You may have to install a "key" slot and rebar for the wall supports. Look for what is called a "section" on your drawings. If a key slot is required it will show it. This can be formed with a 2 x4 hammered down into the wet concrete and slid along to form the key slot. The concrete must be wet enough but not too wet or the slot will refill and not too dry or you won't be able to form it. A little hand work with a trowel will do a fine job.

Shows lineal footing with key formed to lock foundation wall in place.

Many foundation walls require what is called rebar dowels to be placed in the footing. You will want to have these dowels pre-bent and ready BEFORE YOU START POURING YOUR CONCRETE. A word of caution here as well. Splattered concrete can cause severe damage to your eyes and skin. Wear safety glasses or goggles whenever working with wet concrete. Any concrete you get on your skin should be washed off as quickly as possible to avoid skin burns.

Shows footings formed with rebar dowels tied into place before concrete is poured.

Dowels are typically bent in an L shape with a short horizontal leg and longer vertical leg. Your drawing will tell you how long these legs need to be. An example will read #5 dowels, 4'OC, 12"x36", I.F. This means you are to use # 5 rebar (5/8"), bent with the short leg 12" long and long leg 36" long. The vertical rears will go 2" in from the inside face of the wall.

They are to be placed 4' (48") on center starting from the centerline of the wall in one corner and proceeding around the foundation. When you come to a corner you will have more than likely, less than the 4' spacing so just add an extra bar at that point so each corner has a bar in the center.

Keep the bars as straight as possible. The advantage to installing them before the pour is you don't have to rush around trying to get them in before the concrete is too dry. The disadvantage is you have to finish the top of the concrete around each bar. "Wet sticking" rebar is sometimes frowned upon by architects if the concrete is moved around too much. If you carefully insert the rebar in the wet concrete making sure you have full contact with the concrete If is usually Ok. You cannot have holes around each bar when you are done. Layout and marking of the footing forms as to where the dowels go, is a must. You simply will not have the time nor likely the energy to do it after the concrete is poured. Once the concrete is hard, it is too late.

If the dowels are not installed your building inspector will reject the work.

Leveling of forms-Before you are ready to pour the concrete you must make sure your forms are level. Using a simple 3 point level (Nikon) and a ruler, you can with a helper take elevations every 5-10 feet or so and make sure all the forms are the same height. The footings may have a step or two in them which is determined by the grades on the site. Make sure each area is level within itself. If your foundation is masonry, the steps normally measure no more than 16" high. If the foundation is poured concrete, larger steps can be done. Ask your architect for the maximum step allowed. In any case, each step must be level to allow for a level surface for the foundation walls to sit upon. In warmer climates footings may sit almost on grade. In colder Northern climates, footings may be 4, 5 or even more feet below the ground to the bottom of the footings. This will protect against frost heave during very cold weather.

CLEANUP-

Often ignored is the cleanup portion of footing work. It is required and foolish not to, to remove all lumber from the excavation before you backfill.

In many parts of the country termites are a serious problem. Wet wood buried underground is a tasty morsel for these guys and when their done eating whatever is buried, they will move UP into the building above. Remove all wood, paper, tar buckets or other items that are not made of earth. You want a clean excavation when you start backfilling. I have failed more than one job over the years because the builder thought the open excavation was a landfill. The unknowing future homeowner inherits a potential problem and the builder saves $5 on cleanup costs. Take the time to do it right. Tar bucket residue can weep into the soil and if you are on a private well, could contaminate your drinking water.

Closing

Footings are a critical part of any structure that is going to sit upon them. Take your time to get them located properly, set at the correct elevation and the rest of your work will become much easier to do.

As a purchaser of this e-book you are entitled to one months FREE email support for your project. I cannot offer structural information as that must be done by a licensed professional in the state you reside in but I can offer many tips and tricks or if you need additional information on a particular item regarding footings, feel free to email me and I will get right back to you as quickly as possible.

Every area of the country has its own design criteria for different kinds of footings. Warmer areas allow for the use of pre-made footing blocks available at big box stores. Your local building department will gladly advise you as to the minimum required depth of

footings in your area.

Pete

Your Friendly Building Inspector

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement System Software

See more : Soil Test HDTV Best Deals Review

ISPR Documentary - Role of Pakistan Army in Nation Building - Part 1

The best defense of a country lies in its national motivation and continuous process of indoctrination aimed at stimulating our people to develop and strengthen faith and confidence in ourselves, and to stand up to any challenge and threat to security of our ideological and geographical borders. All of us in our own different ways are in fact involved in the defence of the country. The farmer or the office hand, the WAPDA lineman or the foundry worker, the professional of one category or another, even the artist, poet or writer who provides intellectual stimulation or aesthetic enjoyment, are all participants in the effort. But the gentlemen in uniform do in the longer view seem to be an endangered species. They lay their life in the sacred cause of defending their country so it becomes a moral duty of the entire nation to look after their siblings and other family members. Pakistan Armed Forces have developed their own system of welfare to help them into a befitting manner. The relentless services of Pakistan Armed Forces to the nation at the time of natural disasters are very well known and recognized by the nation. The latest example in this regard is the response of Pakistan Armed Forces to the earthquake of Oct 2005. Despite having their own bunkers destroyed and casualties suffered, they stood firm against the disaster with courage and determination driven by the will to serve the nation and faced the onslaught of the earthquake bravely. Within short span of two ...

Thanks To : Buy On Sale Television Lcd Concrete Formwork Lcdtv 3d Nx810

Storm-Ready Building Features

Bob talks with Leslie Chapman-Henderson from FLASH about the storm-resistant features of the Punta Gorda house. The home is built of SWS — Solid Wall Systems — cast-in-place concrete walls that keep the home protected from impact and water penetration. It also has impact-resistant windows and patio doors to prevent penetration from flying debris, and an outswinging front door to resist blow-in. The home has a raised foundation and stem-wall construction to fight damage from storm surge. The roof goes beyond code with straps and clips that are embedded in the concrete structure during the pour to keep the roof tied down, extra thick 5/8-inch plywood sheathing rather than OSB, an extra moisture barrier, barrel tiles that are screwed into the substrate rather than mortered, and soffits that are reinforced and covered with a grill that resists wind penetration but allows heat from the roof to escape. Although code does not require storm-resistant soffits, Chapman-Henderson expects that to change after all of the soffit failures and water damage from Hurricane Charley. The garage door on this home is impact and wind-resistant with reinforced construction and heavy-duty tracks to prevent twisting, blow-in, and ultimate house failure during a high-wind event. Bob Vila Videos: www.bobvila.com Copyright BVTV Inc 2007

Recommend : Womens's Fragrance VHS on Sale Leo Soil Jewelry Cheap Prices Foundation Engineering

Building Beach Homes - Different Types and Components of Foundations

In examining the different types of foundations the first that we review is the raft foundations. A raft foundation is basically a large concrete slab designed to cover the whole area or part of the site. It is used on soft or weak natural soil or made-up ground (fill) or ground liable to subsidence as in mining areas, or where column are closely spaced that their bases may be to close, touch or overlap, for example, where seventy-five per cent of the site may be covered. Though a raft foundation is used for weak soil it cannot be used for Jamaica beach homes that require a much more sturdy foundation.

Types of Raft
Solid raft consists of a solid two-way reinforced concrete slab. Light rafts are used for small load bearing type buildings or light framed structures with low bearing pressures. For heavier and larger building thicker and deeper raft are used.

Beam and slab raft consist of slab bearing directly on the ground with bean ribs project above it. It is useful where loads or rigidity needs require a slab thicker than three hundred millimeters. This was experimented on for some beachfront property for sale in Jamaica, but the concept was quickly abandoned.

Cellular Raft consists of top and bottom slabs (rafts) with edge and intermediate beams in both directions forming hollow cells. This is useful where raft stresses are high and deep beams (nine hundred millimeters) are necessary to provide the greater rigidity required.
Sometimes the depth may be full basement storey or storeys using reinforced concrete cross-walls, monolithic, with floors and rafts.

Pile Foundations
Pile foundations are those which transmit loads to deeper levels by means of long column bedded in the soil They are suitable on soils of low bearing capacity, where the water table level is high, where there is the presence of shrinkable clays or other materials near the surface which is liable to movement. This is what is used for most beachfront properties for sale in Jamaica.

Types of piles
Friction piles transmit their load to the surrounding soil by means of friction between the pile surfaces and the soil, that is, the piles are supported by friction between soil and pile. End bearing piles carry their loads through weak strata down to a bearing in firm strata below.

Short-Bored piles are relatively short length piles used in firm shrinkable clay as a means of pitching the foundation below the zone of moisture movement. They are usually large in diameter (three hundred millimeters) relative to their short lengths so no steel reinforcement is normally necessary and they are stiff.

Factors which determine Width and Depth of Foundations
The width and depth of foundation varies with the:
o Character of the subsoil
o Weight of the wall and the load which it carries
o Nature and strength of the materials to be used in the design of the foundations; and
o Likely behavior under load of the soils on which the foundation rest

Concrete in Foundations
The strength of concrete is influenced by a number of factors:
1. Proportion and type of cement
2. Type, proportions, grading and quality of aggregates
3. Water content
4. Method of accuracy of batching, mixing, transporting, placing, compacting and curing concrete.

The majority of concrete foundations contain ordinary cement, although this may be varied special circumstances. The customary standard mix is 1:2:4.

Foundation Selection Factors
o Soil conditions
o Type of structure
o Structural load economics of foundation types
o Time available for construction
o Life of building
o Future use of building

Settlement
Settlement is the vertical downward movement of a foundation on a compressible soil.

Causes of settlement
1. Consolidation of soil particles
2. A reduction in the moisture content of certain soils which shrinks on drying out
3. The general movement of the earth due to various causes
4. Overloading the soil

The foundation is the most fundamental aspect of Jamaica beach homes as no matter how good a design is, it will not hold up if the foundation is weak.

More review : Soil Test Sunglasses Microwave Discount Store Hair Styling Irons